This is a piece I wrote for the March 2026 edition of Best of British magazine and the editor has kindly agreed that I can re-publish it here on the blog. If you’d like a physical copy of the magazine you can order on the Best of British magazine website. https://www.classicmagazines.co.uk/single-issue/best-of-british/356
Did you know that Northern Ireland is one of the toughest places in Western Europe to open a new pub or start a microbrewery? However, despite restrictions and archaic laws, some of which date back over one hundred years, local brewers defy logic and lawmakers by continuing to innovate and flourish their business.
At the start of 2026 there were twenty seven breweries and brands across Northern Ireland, all facing a unique challenge in this part of the United Kingdom. A challenge unknown to most brewers across England, Scotland and Wales – goodness me it’s a challenge even unknown to most pub-goers in NI.
That challenge is called The Surrender Principle and it’s been in effect since 1923. Long story short – The Surrender Principle means there is a finite number of licenses across NI which permit the selling of alcohol. If you want to open a new pub, or a brand new taproom off-site from the brewery, you need to acquire the license from someone surrendering theirs. This closed market means that licenses command an eye-watering fee, often a sum out of reach to most microbrewers. Then add in the dominance of multinational brewing co mpanies, which flex their muscles by offering publicans tempting financial incentives to only stock beers in their range, thereby forcing smaller breweries out of a tap line-up. It’s difficult enough to find local microbrews on cask or draught in Belfast but venture outside of our capital city and that problem increases hugely, unless you know where to look.
Aha! This is where you’re in luck my friend, because if you ever find yourself visiting our wondrously iconic shores and fancy a quality beer, there are a few places you need to know about. Let’s start with the most westerly cask beer pub in the UK – The Dog and Duck Inn in Lisbellaw, County Fermanagh. This amazing village pub restaurant has been trading for only four years but has already been crowned Pub of the Year by CAMRA NI as well as on my own blog, Quare Swally. Add in numerous awards for the sumptuous food, as well as the tempting onsite whiskey distillery and you’re surely in heaven. I know I am. The Dog & Duck is a friendly, vibrant space owned by an innovative husband and wife team who are great craic and always support local breweries.
From there, why not head up north to Derry/Londonderry and visit the award-winning Walled City Brewery Taproom and Restaurant. All beers on the menu are brewed onsite and you’ll also get the chance to sample some delicious, award-winning dishes. On a gloriously sunny day the view from the brewery across Ebrington Square and the River Foyle isn’t half bad either.
Our stunning north coast is a surfer’s paradise but if riding the waves isn’t your bag, I’m sure the Lacada Brewery taproom in the seaside town of Portrush might be more your scene. The taproom opened last summer and already is full to capacity most weekends. Or if you’re down in the Mourne Mountains region of County Down, pop into the very popular taprooms at Mourne Mountains in Warrenpoint, Whitewater in Castlewellan or Beer Hut in Kilkeel where you’re sure to find a pint of something to tickle your fancy. All these places are hugely popular and it sure is one in the eye to the Chief Exec of a local hospitality body who recently claimed that craft beer is a fad! I think the many hundreds of people who pack out these countryside venues beg to differ.
What kind of beers do our superb local microbreweries produce? Well, nearly everything really. You name it, we brew it – from sessionable lagers and pale ales, through IPAs and brown ales to heavy hitting beasts such as double digit ABV barleywines and imperial stouts. This part of the world may be known for stout but did you know there’s more to stout here than that G drink? Northern Ireland breweries produce some amazing stouts and I’ll quickly run through a few of my favourites that you should seek out if you get a chance to visit our wee country. You can also order online through the brewery’s website to enjoy in the comfort of your own home.
HEANEY – IRISH STOUT
Heaney Brewery is based near the village of Bellaghy, a town famed for its links to Nobel Prize winning poet Seamus Heaney. His niece Suzanne and her husband Mal brew this top class, simple-but-stunnng 4.3% ABV stout which has delicious notes of dark chocolate and dry roasted nuts.
LACADA – SHAMROCK PINNACLE
From Portrush town, community owned Lacada Brewery has a wide ranging selection of beers on offer, including this 4.8% ABV stout which is hoppier than a creamy nitro. Expect a lovely bitter chocolate vein running through it alongside a faint wisp of walnut and coconut. Shamrock Pinnacle is where stout fuses with Black IPA.
MODEST BEER – DEEP & TOASTY IRISH STOUT
Modest recently moved location, now based in Bangor, County Down. It’s a one-man operation but owner/brewer Chris now runs one of the most respected breweries in Northern Ireland. This 4.3% ABV stout is just like Nana used to drink, according to Chris – faintly creamy, slightly dry and bitter with a little hint of roasted pine nuts coming through. Nana certainly would have approved.
MOURNE MOUNTAINS x BULLHOUSE – COLLABYRINTH
www.mournemountainsbrewery.com and www.bullhousebrewco.com
A collaboration effort involving Mourne Mountains from Warrenpoint and Bullhouse of Belfast led to an American Stout, that being a smooth, slightly hoppy brew which utilised American hops in the boil and dry hop. The resulting 4% stout has a whiff of espresso, pine cone and lemon drops – all under a smooth, dark blanket of roasted malt.
Despite the fact that Northern Ireland is one of the toughest places in Western Europe to start a microbrewery, there’s still an abundance of great beers here and if you fancy an alternative pint of black stuff after reading this please remember – a stout is for life, not just for St. Patrick’s Day.
Sláinte!
Quare Swally 